Introduction
When you think of world-class surf destinations, your mind might drift toward places like Hawaii, Indonesia, or Australia. But tucked away in the northern part of the Philippines lies La Union, a small coastal province that has earned its reputation as one of the country’s premier surf spots. For a pro surfer like me, surfing in La Union offers a unique blend of consistent waves, vibrant local culture, and a burgeoning surf scene that’s hard to find elsewhere in Southeast Asia. In this article, I’ll break down why La Union is such a special place for surfers of all skill levels, and what makes it an unforgettable destination for wave chasers like me.
A Pro Surfer’s First Impressions
My first time in La Union was back in 2015, when the Philippine surf scene was still in its infancy. Arriving in San Juan, La Union’s surfing epicenter, felt like stepping into a tropical paradise, yet it had a certain rawness to it that wasn’t overrun by commercialization. The surf culture was authentic, the local surfers were passionate, and the waves—well, the waves spoke for themselves.
As a pro surfer, I’ve ridden waves all over the world, but what struck me about La Union was its consistency. While it might not have the towering barrels of Uluwatu or Pipeline, what it does have is the ability to deliver fun, rideable waves year-round, especially for longboarders and intermediate surfers. Add to that the warm water, the unhurried island pace, and the friendly local surf community, and it’s easy to see why La Union has earned a permanent spot on the map.
The Waves of La Union: Breaks for Every Skill Level
One of the key things that makes La Union attractive to surfers—both pros and beginners—is the variety of breaks you can find in such a concentrated area. While San Juan is the most famous surf spot, there are several other breaks nearby that offer something for everyone.
1. Monaliza Point
For the more experienced surfers, Monaliza Point is the standout. This right-hand point break is the crown jewel of La Union’s surf scene. Monaliza can deliver fast, hollow waves on a good day, perfect for those who love to ride shortboards and pull into barrels. The wave starts to crank when the north swells roll in from October through March, with the cleanest conditions usually in the early mornings. As a pro, I found Monaliza Point to be the perfect playground for showcasing maneuvers, carving on its long, rippable walls, and even practicing aerials on the steeper sections.
What I love about Monaliza Point is its versatility. On smaller days, it’s still a blast for longboarders, offering mellow walls to cruise along. But when the swell picks up, this spot separates the experienced surfers from the beginners. The wave is fast, and positioning is key. If you’re late on the takeoff, you’ll miss the best part of the wave—the steep face that gives you the speed you need to hit the lip or set up for a tube ride.
2. Urbiztondo Beach
The heart of La Union’s surf scene lies at Urbiztondo Beach in San Juan. This beach break is perfect for beginner and intermediate surfers. The waves here are smaller and more forgiving than at Monaliza Point, which makes it the perfect place for those learning to surf or honing their skills. As a pro, I’ve spent a lot of time coaching and mentoring surfers here because it’s ideal for practicing basics like pop-ups, balance, and reading waves without the pressure of heavy surf.
The wave at Urbiztondo is a slow-breaking, mellow ride that’s perfect for longboarders. It’s also one of the most consistent spots in the area, which means you’re almost guaranteed to find something surfable any time of year. I’ve had days where I’d spend hours just logging on my longboard, trimming along the face of a perfectly peeling two-foot wave, with no rush to do anything but enjoy the ride.
3. Bacnotan
For those seeking a bit of isolation, Bacnotan is just a short drive north of San Juan and offers less crowded waves and a different vibe. The break here is more exposed, picking up swells from different directions, which makes it a bit more challenging to predict. But when the conditions align, Bacnotan can deliver solid, powerful waves that will test even the most seasoned surfers.
The wave here breaks both left and right, and depending on the tide, it can get punchy, especially on a bigger swell. I’ve had some unforgettable sessions in Bacnotan, especially when I wanted to escape the crowds and really push myself. The waves here tend to be faster and more powerful than in Urbiztondo, so you need to be sharp with your takeoffs and quick on your feet.
4. Secret Spots
While Monaliza and Urbiztondo are the well-known breaks, La Union has its fair share of secret spots. As a pro, I’m always on the lookout for places that offer privacy and quality waves without the crowds. Without giving too much away, I’ll just say that if you’re willing to explore the coastline, there are some gems to be found—places where you can score perfect waves all to yourself. Ask around, make friends with the locals, and you might just get a tip-off to a spot that’s off the beaten path.
The Local Surf Scene and Community
One of the things I’ve always loved about surfing in La Union is the local surf scene. The Filipino surfers here are incredibly welcoming, and there’s a real sense of camaraderie in the water. Whether you’re a pro or a complete beginner, you’ll find people eager to share their knowledge, offer tips, and celebrate your waves with you.
I’ve surfed in places where the localism can be pretty intense, but in La Union, there’s more of a communal vibe. You’ll find kids from the local community paddling out on their beat-up boards, absolutely shredding with nothing but stoke in their eyes. Surfing has become a huge part of the local culture in San Juan, and it’s amazing to see how the younger generation is embracing it. In fact, there are some incredibly talented young surfers coming up the ranks in La Union, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see a few of them make a name for themselves on the international scene in the coming years.
1. Philippine Surfing Competitions
La Union is also home to some of the Philippines’ biggest surfing competitions, like the Rimat Ti Amianan Surfing Competition and the Billabong San Juan Surf Invitational. These competitions attract top surfers from all over the country—and even some international pros—making La Union a hub for competitive surfing in the region. Competing here as a pro has been an unforgettable experience. The energy on the beach is electric, and the local crowd really gets behind their surfers.
2. Surf Schools and Local Guides
For beginners, La Union is a great place to start your surfing journey. The area is packed with surf schools offering lessons for first-timers, and the local instructors are some of the friendliest and most knowledgeable people you’ll meet. They know the breaks inside out and can help you find the best waves for your level, whether you’re just learning to stand up or perfecting your bottom turn.
La Union’s Surf Culture Beyond the Waves
While the waves are the main attraction, La Union’s surf culture extends far beyond the water. In the last decade, San Juan has transformed from a sleepy beach town into a vibrant surf hub, attracting travelers, surfers, and creative entrepreneurs from all over the world. This influx has given rise to an array of surf-inspired businesses, from eco-friendly accommodations to artisanal coffee shops and local craft breweries.
1. Surfside Cafes and Hangouts
After a long day of surfing, nothing beats chilling out at one of the many surfside cafes. One of my favorites is El Union Coffee, a staple in the La Union surf community. It’s the perfect spot to grab a post-surf coffee or smoothie and chat with other surfers about the day’s waves. The laid-back vibe, good music, and unbeatable sunset views make it a regular hangout for both locals and travelers alike.
2. Nightlife and Social Scene
La Union’s social scene has grown alongside its surf scene. After the sun sets and the waves calm down, the energy shifts to the beachside bars and music venues. Whether it’s a casual beach bonfire or a night out at Flotsam and Jetsam for some live music and drinks, La Union knows how to keep the good vibes going after dark.
The beach parties here are legendary, and they offer a chance to meet fellow surfers, travelers, and locals. What I love about La Union’s nightlife is that it still feels connected to the surf culture—everything revolves around the ocean, the tides, and the waves.
Sustainability and Surf Tourism
As La Union surfing continues to grow as a surf destination, there’s an increasing focus on sustainability. The local community and surf schools have made a concerted effort to promote eco-friendly practices, from beach clean-ups to banning single-use plastics in many of the surfside cafes. As surfers, we have a unique relationship with the ocean, and it’s amazing to see the La Union community taking steps to protect their environment and preserve the beauty of their coastline.
There are also several local initiatives aimed at giving back to the community, including surf camps and programs that introduce local kids to surfing. These programs not only foster a love for the ocean but also provide valuable opportunities for the next generation of Filipino surfers